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Behaviour, A to Z.

Why dogs and cats do what they do, and what helps. 75 topics in plain words, from bringing a rescued animal home to fear, aggression, soiling and old age. Each one says where in the textbook to check it.

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4 topics

A new animal at home

Bringing home a rescued dog or cat, and giving it a life with enough to do. Start here.

Dogs and catsBringing home a rescued dog or catEvery move is stressful, and most rescued animals arrive with little known history. A calm, planned first week prevents many of the problems that get animals returned.

What is known

  • About a quarter of dogs given up to shelters are given up for behaviour problems, often from mistaken ideas about the cause, unrealistic expectations, or harsh training.
  • Most animals surrendered are between 5 months and 3 years old; animals owned for a short time are the most likely to be given up.
  • After adoption, dogs most often show fear, anxiety, aggression, distress when alone, soiling and attention seeking; cats most often fear, hiding, aggression, soiling, urine marking and scratching.
  • Common medical problems after adoption include parasites, infections, and bone and joint problems; medical causes come first.
  • Most animals settle well, but some take several months.

What helps

  • Before it arrives, set up one safe, pet-proofed room with a bed, water, food, toys and (for a cat) hiding places, a climbing frame and a litter box.
  • Do not give it the run of the house at first. A dog goes out for a walk and a toilet break on arrival; a cat goes straight to its room.
  • See a vet within 7 to 10 days, then check how it is settling after a week.
  • For a dog, plan toilet breaks every 2 to 3 hours when it is left, for at least the first month.
  • Start reward-based training early; a class helps families keep their animals.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 65 to 78.

DogsCrates and safe roomsA crate can help with house training, chewing and settling, and gives a dog a safe place for travel and vet visits. Used without training, it can terrify one.

What is known

  • Use a crate only once the dog has learnt to be comfortable in it.
  • It should let the dog stand up and turn around, and not much more, or one end becomes a toilet.
  • A dog not yet trained to a crate can sleep in a dog-proofed area with a chew toy; it may be unsettled at first.

What helps

  • Teach the crate with treats and meals inside, door open, for short spells first.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 72 to 73.

DogsA good life for a dog: more than walksDogs need to chew, dig, sniff, play and solve problems. Without those outlets many become destructive, restless, demanding or unruly, and some develop stress-related illness.

What is known

  • Puppies, very energetic dogs, and breeds bred for work need the most.
  • Exercise alone is not a treatment: a tired dog is not the same as a settled one.
  • Food in a bowl takes away the chance to hunt and scavenge; working for food fills time and reduces problem behaviour.
  • Classical or reggae music in the background has been shown to increase resting and reduce barking.
  • Dog parks should never be used to "socialise" fearful or aggressive dogs.
  • Swallowed toys can block the gut: choose toys and chews suited to the dog's size.

What helps

  • Hide parts of the daily food in the house or garden, or in a stuffed or frozen toy.
  • Sniffing walks, fetch, tug, and short reward-based training sessions.
  • Rotate toys so they stay new; give each dog its own quiet resting place.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 81 to 93.

CatsA good life for a cat, indoorsCats need to scratch, climb, hunt, hide and rest high up. A home without those outlets leads to destruction, attention seeking, rough play, and stress-related illness such as bladder inflammation.

What is known

  • Cats are most active at dawn and dusk, so that is the best time to play.
  • Hunting is innate and does not depend on hunger.
  • Where several cats share too few resources, tension and fights follow.
  • Cats seem to prefer fine, sandy litter, and one more litter box than there are cats is the starting point (see The litter box).
  • Watching birds through a window does not suit every cat; a frustrated cat may spray or redirect its aggression.

What helps

  • Shelves, perches and climbing frames; hiding boxes; soft resting places, warm ones for old cats.
  • Scratching posts near resting places and in prominent spots.
  • Wand toys and food puzzles; never play with hands or feet.
  • Safe outdoor time if possible: a harness, an enclosed balcony, a cat-proofed fence.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 94 to 114.

2 topics

Two rules under everything

Check for pain and illness first. Train with rewards, never with fear.

Dogs and catsA new behaviour problem? Check for illness firstPain and illness are behind a great many behaviour changes. A new problem in an adult animal should be treated as medical until a vet has ruled that out.

What is known

  • Joint pain and dental pain are common in both dogs and cats, and cats have more joint pain than was long thought.
  • Sore or itchy ears can make an animal avoid being stroked, hugged or held by the collar, or snap when it is.
  • Gut disease, hormonal problems, infections carried by ticks, and brain disease can all show up as behaviour change.
  • Pain that makes moving hard can stop an animal reaching its toilet spot or litter box.
  • If a behaviour plan is not working, a missed medical problem is one of the first things to suspect.

What helps

  • Tell the vet exactly what changed and when; a short video helps.
  • Ask for a calm, low-stress examination; a frightened animal can be examined under sedation.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 18 to 50.

Dogs and catsTraining with rewards, not punishmentAnyone can train a dog or a cat. The method the authors recommend is reward-based, free of force and fear, because it works and does not stress the animal.

What is known

  • Punishment-based training and tools such as shock, prong and choke collars are linked with more fear, anxiety and aggression.
  • A frightened or stressed animal cannot learn, and may not even do things it knows well.
  • Facing an animal with what it fears all at once (flooding) can make it worse; gradual exposure paired with good things works instead.
  • Advice from unqualified trainers, friends and social media is a common source of problems.

What helps

  • Start in a quiet place with few distractions, and use a reward the animal really wants.
  • Keep sessions short, and stop for a break if the animal is anxious.
  • For aggression, look for a trainer who works force-free, alongside a vet.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 201 to 229.

4 topics

Puppies and kittens

The first months shape the adult. A little gentle experience now prevents a lot of trouble later.

DogsA puppy's first monthsThe socialisation period runs from about 3 to 14 weeks. Positive early experiences shape lifelong behaviour; overwhelming ones can create fear. Puppies do not simply grow out of fear.

What is known

  • The best age to leave the mother and litter is probably about 8 weeks, when puppies also approach new people most readily.
  • Gentle handling from the first days builds emotional stability; teach the puppy to enjoy being touched and briefly held, never longer than it stays calm.
  • All healthy puppies should start a well-run puppy class by 12 weeks (first class between 8 and 12 weeks), once vaccinated as the vet advises.
  • Puppies from pet shops, and some from shelters, are at greater risk of behaviour problems such as distress when alone.
  • The authors describe fear periods around 8 to 10 weeks and in adolescence (6 to 12 months); another textbook notes that the evidence for a fixed window is weak (Herron 2024, p. 116; Lesson 12.5).

What helps

  • Introduce a flat collar and a light leash early, with treats; never a choke or prong collar.
  • Teach a basket muzzle as a game early: every dog may need one if injured or in pain.
  • Swap, do not snatch: trade anything in the puppy's mouth for a treat, and teach Drop it and Leave it.
  • Play with toys, and stop before the puppy gets overexcited; never play with hands or feet, and never punish.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 119 to 128.

DogsHouse training a puppyPuppies can toilet on their own from about 3 weeks, but full bladder and bowel control may not come until 4 or 5 months. They go soon after eating, sleeping, playing or exercising.

What is known

  • A rough rule: a puppy can hold on for 1 hour plus its age in months, up to 8 hours when resting.
  • Dogs prefer to go on soft, porous ground, where they have gone before, and away from where they eat and sleep; these preferences form early.
  • Punishing accidents can teach a puppy not to toilet in front of people at all.
  • Leftover smell draws the puppy back, so clean accidents thoroughly.

What helps

  • Take the puppy out often, every 20 to 60 minutes while it is awake and supervised, and whenever one activity ends and another begins.
  • Go on a leash, to the same spot, by the same door, and reward it the moment it finishes there.
  • Clean up an accident without fuss and without involving the puppy.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 129 to 138.

CatsA kitten's first weeksThe window for kittens to get used to people is from 2 to 9 weeks of age. Kittens given daily handling, play, different people and household sounds show fewer fears and problems later.

What is known

  • Kittens raised without their mother or littermates may play and pet roughly, because they never learnt bite control; early weaning has similar effects.
  • Sterilisation does not have to wait for sexual maturity; waiting produces many unwanted kittens.
  • Playful kittens may not suit homes with very young children or frail people.
  • New kittens should be tested for the feline viral diseases FeLV and FIV.

What helps

  • Keep the kitten in one quiet, furnished room for at least the first 24 hours: food, water, a litter box, resting places, hiding spots, toys.
  • Open the travel box and let it come out in its own time, even if that takes hours.
  • Visit often and briefly, and let the kitten set the pace.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 155 to 179.

CatsThe litter boxMany soiling problems in kittens and cats come from dislike of the litter, the box or where it is. Litter preferences can form by 7 weeks of age.

What is known

  • Most cats prefer large boxes; size up as a kitten grows.
  • Scoop at least once a day, more with several cats; empty and wash with mild soap at least monthly, or weekly with non-clumping litter.
  • Old soiled spots from previous cats, if not properly cleaned, can attract a new one.
  • Pain that makes the box hard to use is a common hidden cause.

What helps

  • Offer a few litters side by side and let the cat choose.
  • Put boxes where they are easy to reach, away from food and water, with one on each floor and one more than the number of cats.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 180 to 186.

11 topics

Dogs: aggression

Why a dog threatens or bites, and what keeps everyone safe while it is treated.

DogsThe frightened dog that bitesFear-based aggression is a dog trying to make a threat go away. It starts with fearful body language, and if threatening works, the dog learns to use it sooner and more confidently.

What is known

  • Lack of early socialisation, early illness or pain, harsh training and punishment can all contribute to it.
  • Forcing a frightened dog into the situations it fears can make the fear worse rather than better.
  • Punishment during an aggressive episode can increase fear, and can teach the dog to stop growling before it bites.
  • Pain from skin, joint, gut or hormonal illness can make an aggressive response more likely.
  • Treatment aims to control the problem, not cure it. The outlook is better when the aggression is mild, happens in a few predictable situations and is recent.

What helps

  • Keep people safe first: a leash, and a basket muzzle the dog has learnt to like, around people it has threatened.
  • Avoid known triggers; meet them only in planned training sessions, at a level the dog can stay calm at.
  • Teach simple cues such as Sit and Wait with rewards, so the dog has a safe thing to do when it is worried.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 305 to 315.

DogsGuarding food, toys and placesA dog that stiffens, hovers, growls or bites over food, a bone, a toy, a resting place or a person is guarding something it values. Guarding food can be normal where food is scarce, but it is dangerous when it is aimed at people.

What is known

  • Very tasty food, long-lasting chews and past hunger make food guarding more likely, and a street dog may have been hungry long before it was adopted.
  • Early signs are easy to miss: stiffening, hovering over the item, blocking access. Children in particular do not read them.
  • Punishing these low-level warnings can make the next warning stronger, or skip it.
  • A growl over food is within normal dog behaviour; it is a warning, not defiance.
  • With good management most dogs relax about people near their food over several months, though some prized items may always need to be avoided.

What helps

  • Let the dog eat undisturbed, behind a gate or a closed door.
  • Give bones and favourite chews only in a safe, gated space, especially where there are children or other dogs.
  • To get something back, trade it for something better or teach Drop it with rewards. Never pull it away.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 316 to 325 and 381 to 392.

DogsA dog that threatens its own familyAggression toward familiar people ranges from stiffening, staring and growling to biting. It can have more than one cause, often fear, guarding or pain, and it is rarely cured, but it can be made much safer.

What is known

  • Past harsh or inconsistent punishment can make the response more intense.
  • Illness that causes pain or irritability must be checked by a vet.
  • In one study of bites to children under seven, most happened indoors, during a friendly interaction with a dog the child knew.
  • Young children, elderly people or people with weak immunity in the home can make keeping such a dog unsafe.

What helps

  • Stop whatever has triggered aggression before, including petting if that is a trigger.
  • Announce interactions so the dog can predict them: call the dog and say what is coming, such as Walk time.
  • Use only reward-based training; learn the dog's body language (Lesson 12.1 in the Academy).

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 326 to 337.

DogsAggression toward strangersMost aggression toward unfamiliar people is driven by fear or anxiety. Certain kinds of people, such as men with beards or children, are often the targets.

What is known

  • Too little socialisation in the puppy weeks (3 to 14 weeks of age) can contribute; so can a single frightening experience with a stranger.
  • Dogs left to bark at passers-by, including dogs tied up outside, are at risk of becoming territorial and fearful.
  • In most dogs it cannot be fully eliminated, and safety measures may be needed for life.
  • You do not have to introduce your dog to every visitor. Keeping it away from them is an accepted treatment.

What helps

  • Use a leash, and a basket muzzle if needed, in public and when visitors come; if that is not safe, keep the dog in another room.
  • Teach calm cues with rewards in easy settings first.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 338 to 349.

DogsGuarding the gate, the house or the carTerritorial aggression is aimed at people or animals approaching a place the dog sees as its own: a house, a compound, a vehicle. The targets are usually strangers.

What is known

  • Every time barking at a passer-by is followed by the person walking on, the dog learns that barking works.
  • A tethered dog cannot retreat, which can build both territorial aggression and fear.
  • Dogs are not usually cured and may always need a barrier such as a leash or gate around unfamiliar people. Do not wait for a dog to grow out of it.

What helps

  • Block the dog's unsupervised view of the street through gates, windows and fences.
  • Teach Sit, Touch and Wait with rewards, so the dog has something to do when someone comes.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 412 to 421.

DogsDogs who fight at homeDogs who live together can fight, from stares and growls to real injuries. It often starts around social maturity (1 to 3 years) or after a change in the household.

Careful. Never put your hands between fighting dogs. People are often bitten by their own dog, by accident or redirected aggression.

What is known

  • Common triggers: a new pet or person, a dog falling ill or growing old, a dog coming home after time away, or a change in the family's routine.
  • Dogs do not share resources the way people think is fair, and imposing human ideas of fairness does not help.
  • If both dogs are behaviourally normal and the triggers can be controlled, the outlook is good; if either has abnormal social behaviour, it is guarded.

What helps

  • Learn how to separate fighting dogs without reaching between them: reaching in is how people get bitten.
  • Teach both dogs simple cues with rewards, and keep valued items out of shared spaces.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 359 to 369.

DogsLunging at other dogs, and on the leashLunging and barking on a leash is a description, not a diagnosis: it may come from fear, frustration, excitement or prey drive. Aggression toward unfamiliar dogs is most often fear.

What is known

  • Too little contact with other dogs in the puppy weeks, harsh training and punishment, and being attacked on a walk all raise the risk.
  • Punishing a dog as it sees another dog can teach it that approaching dogs mean pain.
  • Many dogs improve enough to walk calmly past other dogs; some will never safely greet or live with other dogs.

What helps

  • Walk at quiet times and places, on a standard-length leash, never an extendable one.
  • Use a well-fitting collar or harness that cannot slip; never a choke, prong or shock collar.
  • Turn away early when you see another dog coming, and reward calm attention to you.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 370 to 380 and 393 to 403.

DogsBiting whoever is closestRedirected aggression is aimed at a nearby person or animal instead of whatever the dog was aroused by, often when it is held back from reaching the real target or is startled.

What is known

  • An aroused dog may not tell the difference between a family member and the target. Touching or pulling a dog in that state is how people get bitten.
  • It usually sits on top of another problem, such as fear, territorial aggression or frustration.
  • If the main problem is treated and triggers can be predicted and avoided, the outlook can be good.

What helps

  • Do not touch, hold or scold a highly aroused dog; give it space and let it settle.
  • Teach it to move away to a quiet place when its triggers appear.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 404 to 411.

DogsFrustration that boils overFrustration is normal. It becomes a problem when a dog that cannot reach something it wants, behind a fence, a leash or a door, turns that frustration into aggression or self-injury.

What is known

  • Pain, illness and poor senses lower a dog's tolerance for frustration.
  • Inconsistent rules frustrate dogs: when the same behaviour is sometimes rewarded and sometimes punished, they cannot predict what works.
  • It usually needs long-term management, and it can grow as dogs mature socially.

What helps

  • Make life predictable: clear cues, rewarded consistently, by everyone in the household.
  • Train in short, easy steps so the dog succeeds; an overly frustrated dog cannot learn.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 422 to 435.

DogsA dog that fights at the vetAggression during veterinary care is a dog asking for space, usually out of fear. Past painful handling, rough restraint and too little gentle handling when young all add to it.

What is known

  • Fear of the car, of new places or of strangers can already have the dog anxious before the examination starts.
  • Even routine handling, such as being lifted onto a table, can be frightening.
  • Motivated caregivers can expect substantial improvement, but gentle handling has to continue for life.

What helps

  • Practise gentle mock examinations at home, paired with small tasty treats.
  • Learn the early signs of fear so you can tell the vet team (Lesson 12.1 in the Academy).
  • Ask the vet about a plan for a frightened dog before the next visit.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 436 to 450.

DogsAggression with no cause foundIdiopathic aggression is aggression for which no cause is found even after a full medical and behaviour work-up. It is rare, often sudden and unpredictable, and can be dangerous.

What is known

  • Pain and illness, such as arthritis, gut disease, skin disease and an underactive thyroid, must be ruled out first; some events may be seizures.
  • There is no consistently effective treatment.
  • Severe cases often stay dangerous and can get worse over time.

What helps

  • A full veterinary examination before anything else.
  • Safety measures such as muzzles and confinement are not optional with this diagnosis.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 350 to 358.

8 topics

Cats: aggression

Cats would rather run than fight. When they cannot, or when play, petting or another cat tips them over, here is what is happening.

CatsThe frightened cat that hisses and swatsGiven the choice, a frightened cat runs. When it cannot escape, fear turns into defensive aggression. A cat behaving this way is distressed, not spiteful.

Careful. Do not pick up, hold or stroke a cat that is behaving defensively to calm it. Serious injuries happen this way.

What is known

  • Warning signs: backing away, fur standing up, a fast-flicking tail, ears flat against the head, wide pupils, hissing, growling and swatting.
  • Too little early contact with people and other animals, a new person or pet, chasing or cornering a cat, and a home with nowhere to hide all add to it.
  • Brief fear is normal; fear that goes on for a long time harms a cat's health and welfare.
  • Expect weeks to months of treatment, with small setbacks along the way.

What helps

  • Give the cat plenty of resources, spread out: several feeding places, high perches, low hiding places, more than one litter box.
  • If it must be moved, drop a large towel or blanket over it, or guide it into a room and leave it alone to calm down.
  • Daily play, if the cat enjoys it.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 451 to 461.

CatsCats who fight in the same homeCats sharing a home may be close friends, sleeping together and grooming each other, or quietly or openly at war. Fighting can start at the first meeting or years later, after one incident or slow change.

What is known

  • Risk factors: many cats in or around the home, the breeding season, cats reaching maturity, a new cat in the house or the neighbourhood, a move, and too few food bowls, water bowls, litter boxes and resting places.
  • Aggression can be passive: one cat blocking another's way to food or the litter box. It still harms the cat on the receiving end.
  • Putting fighting cats back together too soon makes it last longer and get worse. With time it usually improves, but this can take many months.
  • Cats may learn to live together peacefully without ever becoming friends.

What helps

  • Separate them for part of every day to keep the peace.
  • Give each cat its own food, water, litter box and resting place, with high walkways and hiding boxes.
  • Let each explore the other's room only when both are calm.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 462 to 477.

CatsThe cat that bites while being strokedA cat that asked for attention can still turn and bite after a while of stroking. It is saying that it has had enough, and each cat has its own limit.

What is known

  • Signs before the bite: the tail starts to flick, the ears rotate, the skin twitches.
  • Too much stroking, little handling when young (the window for getting used to people is 2 to 9 weeks of age), anxiety, itchy skin and painful conditions such as arthritis all play a part.
  • Many of these cats do not like to be carried or held.
  • With care, serious aggression can be stopped straight away, because it depends on how the cat is touched.

What helps

  • Stroke briefly, and only when the cat is relaxed and asking for it.
  • Stop at the first warning sign; do not stroke absent-mindedly.
  • Notice when the cat most enjoys contact, often at mealtimes, early morning or when people come home.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 487 to 497.

CatsKittens that pounce and bite in playRough play is normal kitten behaviour that rehearses hunting. It feels like aggression when it lands on ankles and hands, and light bites can break the skin of children and elderly people.

What is known

  • Most likely in a single young cat, a kitten raised without other kittens, or one encouraged to play with hands and feet.
  • It is usually normal and treatable, and most cats play less roughly as they grow up.
  • Uninhibited, hard play aimed at people is harder to change.

What helps

  • Give toys that flutter, bounce and move, and play with the cat every day.
  • Never play with hands, feet or loose clothing.
  • Avoid string, wool and toys small enough to swallow; swallowed string can need surgery.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 498 to 505.

CatsA cat that attacks after seeing another catA cat aroused by something it cannot reach, often a cat outside the window, may turn on the nearest person or pet instead. Noises and sights can set it off too.

What is known

  • Any cat with another form of aggression can redirect it.
  • Once the arousal has passed, redirected aggression is unlikely. If the trigger can be controlled, the outlook is good.

What helps

  • Leave an aroused cat alone until it is calm; put it somewhere quiet with food, water and a litter box.
  • Block the view of cats outside, and do not encourage the cat to watch or meet unfamiliar cats.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 506 to 513.

CatsA cat defending its patchTerritorial aggression is aimed at intruders, most often other cats, sometimes dogs or people, and sometimes at a newcomer the cat wants out of the house.

What is known

  • Many cats in the area, the breeding season, a cat reaching maturity, a new cat at home or nearby, and a move all raise the risk.
  • Fights are more common at dawn and dusk, when cats are most active.
  • Food left outside attracts other animals.
  • It can be hard to treat, especially between free-roaming cats, and severe cases take months.

What helps

  • Keep a home cat in at dawn and dusk if it fights outside.
  • Vaccinate cats that go outdoors.
  • Think carefully before adding a new cat to a home where territorial fights have happened.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 514 to 525.

CatsThe bold cat that attacksSome cats use aggression confidently, to get something or to end contact they do not want. Its causes are not known, and it can usually be reduced rather than cured.

Careful. Never leave children alone with a cat that attacks this way.

What is known

  • Warning signs: tail flicking, flattened ears, wide pupils, a hunched head, stillness, a low growl.
  • Explosive, unpredictable aggression may be too dangerous for some households, depending on who lives there.

What helps

  • Avoid what sets it off, including approaching, stroking or lifting the cat.
  • Teach Come, Sit and Off with food or a clicker; do not threaten or command.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 478 to 486.

CatsA cat that fights at the vetMany cats are already frightened before they reach the vet: caught, pushed into a travel box and driven. Rushed visits, heavy restraint and pain do the rest.

What is known

  • Comforting a frightened cat does not reward its fear, though it may not calm it and can put you at risk of a bite.
  • Punishment and scolding make fear worse.
  • Forcing a frightened cat through a procedure makes the next visit harder; patience and avoiding overwhelming it matter most.

What helps

  • Teach the cat to like its travel box and short car rides first (see Taking a cat to the vet).
  • Ask the vet team for a slow, gentle visit plan for a fearful cat.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 526 to 538.

6 topics

Dogs: fear, anxiety and being alone

Fear protects an animal; it becomes a problem when it is out of proportion, lasts, or takes over daily life.

DogsThe newly adopted dog that is anxiousA new home is full of the unknown, and the unknown makes many dogs fearful or anxious. One bad experience can leave anxiety about that situation, or about everything.

What is known

  • Fear is partly inherited; long stays in a shelter, too much time in kennels or crates, and too little socialisation as a puppy add to it.
  • With a plan followed, improvement is usually seen within 2 to 4 weeks. Some anxieties never fully go, especially if stress continues.
  • Treatment can be slow and lifelong, and for a few dogs a different home suits them better.

What helps

  • Interrupt a worried behaviour with a light, happy sound, then ask for something easy, such as Sit or Go to your mat, and reward it.
  • Keep routines predictable and give the dog a quiet place of its own.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 539 to 548.

DogsAfraid of peopleFear shows as freezing, fleeing, fighting or fidgeting. Severe fear of people limits a dog's life, and the earlier it is treated, the better the outlook.

What is known

  • Genes, the mother's experiences before birth, early experience and later bad experiences all shape a fearful temperament. Illness can add to it.
  • Shy dogs, or dogs that missed socialisation, may change little even after months; some improve to near normal, some stay fearful.
  • Punishment makes fear worse, can trigger fear-based aggression, and hides the signs you need to see.

What helps

  • Stop all punishment and scolding.
  • Work out exactly who sets the fear off (children, men, groups, people reaching) and how close they can be before it starts; stay below that.
  • Pair those people, at a safe distance, with things the dog loves.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 549 to 557.

DogsAfraid of places, objects and going outsideSome dogs fear particular places, such as a clinic or a car, or things, such as bins or flags. Others fear going outdoors at all, which can lead to soiling indoors.

What is known

  • Common causes: little gentle exposure to new places and things in the first months, a frightening experience, punishment, and being pushed into the fear again and again.
  • Loud noises, traffic, other animals, people, bad weather and construction machinery are frequent triggers outdoors.
  • Improvement is likely, complete recovery less so; it takes weeks to months, and long-standing fears are harder.

What helps

  • Avoid full exposure to the trigger while treating; a traumatic exposure undoes progress.
  • Include anything the dog now links to the fear, such as the leash or a phrase, in gentle training.
  • A dog afraid of all outdoor activity usually needs a vet's help as well, because outings cannot be avoided.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 558 to 576.

DogsThe dog that is anxious most of the timeAnxiety is fear of something that has not happened yet: the dog watches, scans, is tense and restless. Constant anxiety harms health and quality of life.

What is known

  • Genes, missed socialisation, bad experiences, an unpredictable home and big changes such as a move all contribute.
  • Chronic anxiety can show up as repetitive behaviours, urine marking or soiling indoors.
  • Improvement is likely; full resolution is less so, and old problems resist change.

What helps

  • Remove triggers where possible and give the dog a secluded, safe area.
  • Learn the early signs of fear, keep the day predictable, and do not punish.
  • Separate animals that are in conflict at home, and make sure food, water and resting places are easy to reach.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 577 to 587.

DogsFear of noises, thunder and fireworksMild fear of sudden loud noise, flashes and smoke can be normal and fades. A phobia is excessive, can range from freezing to frantic escape, and can outlast the noise itself.

What is known

  • Other anxieties (especially separation distress), noise-sensitive breeds, exposure without getting used to it, living with a noise-phobic animal, and big changes all add to the risk.
  • Rescued dogs may be more at risk of storm phobia: they may have missed socialisation or lived through storms as strays.
  • Dogs can learn to link nightfall, smoke or flashes with fireworks and become anxious before any bang.
  • Fireworks phobia makes dogs escape and get lost. A dog's calm at its first fireworks does not mean it will stay calm.
  • Training with recordings may not carry over fully to real fireworks; severely phobic dogs often relapse.

What helps

  • Do not take dogs to fireworks displays.
  • Keep dogs safely contained and supervised on fireworks nights; stay home with a new dog for its first one.
  • Do not shut a dog in a crate it has not learnt to like: it may injure itself trying to escape.
  • A collar with your number, or a microchip, helps a lost dog come home. The fireworks page has more.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 588 to 623.

DogsDistress when left aloneA dog in distress when apart from its person may destroy things, bark or howl, or soil the house while alone. It is distressed, not spiteful or taking revenge.

What is known

  • Genes and poor maternal care play a part. Dogs that came through shelters and rescues are reported with it more often.
  • Punishment has no place in treating it.
  • Progress can be slow, with setbacks; it can take months.

What helps

  • Until the dog can stay calm alone, avoid leaving it alone: day care, a sitter, friends or family, or taking it along.
  • Keep departures and returns low-key; leave a food-stuffed toy as a distraction.
  • Practise short, calm absences, building up slowly, and meet its daily needs for exercise and play.
  • A dog that panics, injures itself or is very destructive needs a vet's help.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 624 to 640.

5 topics

Cats: fear, anxiety and being alone

Cats hide their distress well. Hiding, overgrooming, soiling and not eating can all be fear talking.

CatsThe newly adopted cat that hidesA new home frightens many cats. Hiding, restlessness, crying, soiling outside the litter box, overgrooming, scratching and biting are all common in the first weeks.

What is known

  • Cats that were sociable at the shelter tend to show less fear in a new home.
  • Within one to two weeks most cats become more active and curious; by about the fifth week they should be comfortable in the parts of the home they can reach.

What helps

  • Keep the space quiet and predictable, with several hiding boxes close by.
  • Gently toss a treat whenever the cat comes out of hiding or explores; never pull it out.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 641 to 651.

CatsAfraid of people, places or thingsCats can fear people, particular places such as the clinic, or objects such as new furniture or parcels. Fear shows as freezing, fleeing, fighting or fidgeting.

What is known

  • Genes, experiences before and after birth, too little early exposure, bad experiences and punishment all play a part; illness can add to it.
  • Pushing a cat into what it fears, to "socialise" it, can make the fear worse.
  • The earlier it is treated, the better. Some cats become near normal; shy or poorly socialised cats may change little even after months.

What helps

  • Stop all punishment and scolding.
  • A steady daily routine and safe spots around the home.
  • Teach simple cues such as Touch or Sit with treats, and reward the cat for going to its safe spot.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 652 to 670.

CatsThe cat that is anxious most of the timeAn anxious cat is always braced for trouble: watchful, tense, restless. Constant anxiety harms its health, and can lead to repetitive behaviours, marking and soiling.

What is known

  • Genes, missed early experiences, bad experiences, an unpredictable home and big changes all contribute.
  • Improvement is likely, complete recovery less so.

What helps

  • Block views that upset the cat, separate animals in conflict, and add food and water bowls, resting places, hiding spots and litter boxes.
  • Keep the day predictable, and never punish an anxious cat.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 671 to 682.

CatsFear of noises, storms and fireworksCats, too, can go from normal startle to phobia: panic, escape, destruction and injury, sometimes after one very intense experience.

What is known

  • Rescued cats may be more at risk of storm phobia, having missed socialisation or faced storms as strays.
  • Cats can learn to link nightfall, smoke and flashes with fireworks and become anxious before any bang.
  • Training with recordings may not carry over fully to the real thing; severely phobic cats are likely to relapse.
  • Some cats will still hide, pace or stay close to you despite treatment.

What helps

  • Supervise and safely contain cats during fireworks.
  • Find a food the cat loves, and keep it for training and frightening nights only.
  • The fireworks page has a checklist for the night itself.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 683 to 717.

CatsCats can miss you tooSome cats are distressed when apart from the person they are attached to: they may destroy things, cry, soil, stop eating or overgroom while alone.

What is known

  • Early research links it with living only indoors, having no toys, and living without other pets.
  • The cat is distressed, not spiteful. Punishment has no place in treatment, which can take weeks or months, with setbacks.

What helps

  • Regular, predictable play and contact each day.
  • Toys and things to do while you are out; calm departures and returns.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 718 to 730.

4 topics

Toilet problems and marking

Soiling indoors is the commonest behaviour reason animals are given up. It is never spite, and most of it can be solved.

DogsA dog that soils indoorsPeeing or pooping indoors is the most common single behaviour reason dogs are surrendered to shelters. Causes include never being fully house trained, too few chances to go outside, fear, excitement, marking and illness.

What is known

  • Most cases respond well, if the family supervises closely for several weeks or months.
  • Soiling from fear, anxiety or excitement takes longer to resolve, and relapses are common.
  • Punishing after the fact does not teach the dog anything except to fear you.

What helps

  • Retrain an adult dog like a puppy: supervise or confine, take it out often, reward it outdoors (see House training a puppy).
  • A vet check for urinary and gut problems.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 901 to 912.

DogsLeg-lifting and marking indoorsMarking leaves a scent message on an object or place. Intact males are the most likely to mark, and new smells, new furniture, a move, or new people or animals can set it off.

What is known

  • Neutering before sexual maturity may prevent marking problems, and neutering an intact male often helps a great deal.
  • Most dogs improve once the triggers are managed or removed.
  • Punishment after the event is ineffective and creates fear.

What helps

  • Keep a steady routine and clean marked spots thoroughly so the smell does not invite more.
  • Seek help early.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 913 to 924.

CatsA cat that goes outside the litter boxHouse soiling is a cat choosing to empty its bladder or bowels away from the litter box, usually because something about the box, its place or the cat's health is wrong. It is never spite or revenge.

What is known

  • Linked factors include scented litter, the cat digging less in the litter or not covering its mess, and urinary tract disease.
  • Punishment is unlikely to help and may make it worse.
  • Medical problems must be found and treated first.

What helps

  • Make the spots it has used unavailable or unattractive.
  • Offer the ideal box: try different litters and boxes side by side and let the cat choose (see The litter box).

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 925 to 937.

CatsA cat that spraysSpraying is a standing cat backing up to a wall, raising and quivering its tail, and spraying a little urine. It is normal cat communication, not house soiling.

What is known

  • New smells, new objects, new people or animals, and cats outside all trigger it; homes with several cats are more prone, but single cats spray too.
  • Some cats stay strongly motivated to mark despite treatment, and marking stays higher where cats in the home are fighting.

What helps

  • Reduce tension between cats, separating them at the times fights happen.
  • Block the view of cats outside.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 938 to 950.

15 topics

Dogs: everyday problem behaviour

Mostly normal dog behaviour in the wrong place: it changes with exercise, clear rules and rewards, not punishment.

DogsPawing, nudging, barking for attentionDogs ask for attention by barking, pawing, nudging, jumping, mouthing and following. It grows when interactions are inconsistent, needs are unmet, or the dog is anxious.

What is known

  • Ignoring the behaviour for a short while and then giving in teaches the dog to try harder and longer.
  • Most cases respond within a few weeks to a few months.

What helps

  • Meet daily needs for exercise, toilet trips, mental work and company.
  • Give attention on your terms, with a clear start and an "All done" end.
  • Reward a calm alternative, such as sitting, and stop rewarding the pestering.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 951 to 958.

DogsBegging at the tableEvery bite given to a begging dog, even to quieten it, keeps begging going. Hunger from growth or illness can add to it.

What is known

  • If everyone in the home is consistent and begging never pays, it eventually stops; it can take several weeks, and often gets worse before it gets better.

What helps

  • No food or attention for begging, from anyone.
  • Reward the dog for lying on its mat during meals.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 959 to 966.

DogsChewing thingsChewing is normal exploration and play, especially in young dogs. It becomes destructive with too little exercise and play, or when fear (storms, fireworks, being left alone) drives it.

What is known

  • Puppies have to be taught what is theirs to chew; the chewing phase can last a long time.
  • Teething, from about 14 to 30 weeks of age, can increase mouthing and chewing.

What helps

  • Put things away and cover electrical cords.
  • Give safe chews, reward the dog for using them, and swap them in when it picks the wrong thing.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 967 to 974 and 1027 to 1036.

DogsStealing food, rubbish and belongingsTaking food from tables or bins is normal scavenging for a dog; taking shoes or phones is often play or a bid for attention. The "guilty look" is a reaction to you, not a sign of spite.

What is known

  • Lack of exercise, mental work, company and clear rules all contribute.
  • Punishing a dog for having an item teaches it to avoid you, not the item; chasing it can turn into a game, or into guarding.
  • With management, the outlook is good.

What helps

  • Keep counters, bins and belongings out of reach.
  • Trade, do not chase: offer something better and teach Drop it.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 992 to 1000 and 1061 to 1070.

DogsEating poopEating faeces is common in dogs and rare in cats. A mother cleaning up after her puppies is normal; other cases can involve gut, hormonal or dietary problems, or habit.

What is known

  • It is usually not harmful, unless the faeces carry parasites, viruses or toxins.
  • Long-standing cases may persist despite treatment.

What helps

  • Call the dog to you right after it toilets and reward it, so it expects food from you, not the ground.
  • Teach Leave it, pick up promptly, and have a vet check the gut and diet.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 975 to 981.

DogsDiggingDigging is normal dog behaviour, stronger in breeds made to burrow after prey. It also comes from boredom, heat with no shade, and anxiety.

What is known

  • Punishing normal behaviour is not justified; giving the dog somewhere it may dig works better.
  • With more exercise and play, play digging usually settles.

What helps

  • Provide shade and shelter in hot weather.
  • Make a digging spot, bury toys there, and reward digging in it.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 982 to 991.

DogsJumping up and overexcitementJumping up is normal greeting and play. Overexcitement and impulsiveness usually come from too little exercise and stimulation, or from being reprimanded, which is also attention.

What is known

  • Most jumping improves within two weeks of consistent training.
  • Most excitable young dogs calm with maturity; a few have a true medical overactivity that needs a vet.
  • Choose a dog for its behaviour and needs, not only its looks: some breeds need far more activity.

What helps

  • Turn away and withdraw attention when the dog jumps; greet it when all four feet are down.
  • Teach Sit as the way to say hello, and use a leash to manage greetings at first.
  • Daily exercise and brain work are not optional.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 1001 to 1016.

DogsMounting ("humping")Mounting has many motives, including play, excitement and anxiety. The common belief that it is about dominance or sexual interest in people is wrong.

What is known

  • It is more common in intact and male dogs, and in anxious or stressed dogs.
  • When attention is withdrawn it may get worse for a while before it fades.

What helps

  • Look away, stop touching the dog and walk away when it mounts.
  • Redirect it to a cue it knows and reward that.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 1017 to 1026.

DogsPuppy biting and rough playPuppies explore with their mouths and must learn a soft mouth. Mouthing and rough play peak in puppies and adolescents and while adult teeth come in.

What is known

  • Hunting and working breeds use their mouths more.
  • When you stop rewarding rough play it may briefly get worse before it improves.

What helps

  • Allow a little gentle mouthing; end play the moment teeth press hard.
  • Always have a toy ready to put in the puppy's mouth instead of your hand.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 1027 to 1036.

DogsRestless or noisy at nightBarking, whining, pacing or playing at night can come from pain (arthritis, ears, teeth, itch), illness, or simply too little to do during the day.

What is known

  • Getting up to give food or let the dog out rewards the night waking.
  • If too little daytime activity is the cause, giving more usually works within weeks.

What helps

  • A vet check for pain and illness.
  • More exercise, play and company in the day; a calm bedtime routine.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 1037 to 1044.

DogsChasing and killing other animalsPredatory behaviour is the hard-wired sequence of hunting: stalk, chase, catch, kill. It is not aggression in the usual sense, and it can be silent and fast.

What is known

  • Genes, breeding for herding or hunting, and early experience of hunting all strengthen it.
  • Not every species can safely live together; training reduces risk but does not cure it.
  • Predatory behaviour that cannot be managed has a poor outlook.

What helps

  • Rigorous management: secure fencing, leashes, and never leaving the dog with small animals unsupervised.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 1045 to 1053.

DogsEscaping and roamingRoaming, leaving home territory, is more common in males, and in dogs with too little to do at home or gaps in the fence.

What is known

  • Roaming intact dogs father unwanted litters and spread parasites and disease.
  • Roaming dogs are at greater risk of injury.
  • Secure containment and a richer life at home resolve most cases.

What helps

  • Mend fences and gates, and keep doors shut.
  • More exercise, play and company at home; sterilisation for intact dogs.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 1054 to 1060.

DogsCar sickness and travel nervesDogs travel to the vet, to groomers and to new homes. Problems include motion sickness, fear and overexcitement, which look different and need different help.

What is known

  • Sudden movements, fast sharp turns, not being able to see out, and a full stomach make motion sickness worse.
  • Puppies often outgrow motion sickness.

What helps

  • Drive smoothly and slowly; avoid winding, bumpy roads where you can.
  • Short, pleasant practice trips, paired with treats.
  • Learn which signs are fear and which are excitement.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 1071 to 1080.

DogsPulling and misbehaving on the leashPulling, barking, jumping and refusing to walk on the leash are among the commonest complaints. Pain, poor senses, fear and overexcitement can all be behind them.

What is known

  • A dog that is not under control on the leash is a risk to people and to itself.
  • Most cases improve with consistent, reward-based training.

What helps

  • Teach the dog what to do instead, such as walking at your side, and reward it.
  • A vet check if the dog refuses to walk or seems sore.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 1081 to 1089.

DogsToo much barkingBarking is normal. It is a problem when it is excessive or cannot be stopped, and it can come from pain, territory, attention seeking, anxiety, other dogs barking, or fights.

What is known

  • Barking is often rewarding in itself, so it is hard to change; most problems need several weeks of work.
  • Unclear rules and unmet needs for exercise, play and company feed it.

What helps

  • Remove or block what sets it off, such as a view of the street.
  • Teach a Quiet cue with rewards, and meet the dog's daily needs.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 1090 to 1100.

9 topics

Cats: everyday problem behaviour

Scratching, climbing, night-time crying and the rest: mostly normal cat behaviour that needs a better outlet.

CatsScratching furnitureScratching is normal: it keeps claws in shape and leaves a mark. Cats scratch most when they wake up and where they spend time, and many prefer furniture if no good post is offered.

What is known

  • In homes with several cats, scratching can also be a message to the other cats.
  • Given time, many cats can be taught to scratch in the right place.
  • There are good alternatives to declawing, which the authors advise discussing before any surgery.

What helps

  • Put a sturdy scratching post near where the cat sleeps and where it already scratches.
  • Make the furniture it targets unattractive or unavailable for a while.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 1173 to 1181.

CatsClimbing curtains, shelves and countersCats seek high places to watch, hunt and feel safe. Young, energetic cats with too little to do also climb curtains, knock things off shelves and play roughly.

What is known

  • Food and food smells left on counters draw cats up there.
  • Cats often learn to stay off counters while you are watching, and use them when you are not.
  • Punishment is unlikely to work; most cats calm with age and enough play.

What helps

  • Give them better high places: shelves, climbing frames, a window perch.
  • Keep counters clear of food, and play with the cat every day.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 1125 to 1139.

CatsCrying and playing at nightYowling, pacing, knocking things over and playing at night can come from pain (arthritis, teeth, ears, itch), illness, or too little to do during the day.

What is known

  • Even eye contact, saying No or pushing the cat away can count as attention and keep the night waking going.
  • If too little daytime activity is the cause, giving more usually helps.

What helps

  • A vet check for pain and illness, especially in older cats.
  • Play hard in the evening, then feed; give no attention for night-time demands.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 1150 to 1156.

CatsPestering for attention and foodCats ask by crying, pawing, following and pacing, and sometimes by soiling or overgrooming. Inconsistent rules, boredom and anxiety make it worse; every titbit for begging makes it stronger.

What is known

  • Ignoring briefly and then giving in teaches the cat to try harder.
  • Most cases improve within weeks to months when everyone is consistent.

What helps

  • Meet daily needs for play, company and a good diet, on a predictable schedule.
  • Give attention when the cat is calm, and nothing for pestering.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 1101 to 1116.

CatsChewing and stealing thingsYoung cats chew and carry off things while exploring and playing: cords, hair ties, string, clothing. Fear and boredom add to it.

What is known

  • Kittens must be shown what is theirs to chew.
  • String, cords and hair ties are dangerous if swallowed.
  • The cat is not being spiteful; punishing it after the fact does not teach it anything.

What helps

  • Cover electrical cords and put small, stringy things away.
  • Provide safe toys and play every day.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 1117 to 1124 and 1182 to 1188.

CatsHunting birds and small animalsHunting is hard-wired in cats. It is not aggression, and training does not cure it.

What is known

  • Some hybrid breeds, such as Bengals and Savannahs, may be more predatory.
  • Not all species can live safely together; small pets need protecting from cats.

What helps

  • Rigorous management: keep cats and small pets apart, and give cats daily hunting-style play.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 1157 to 1164.

CatsCats that wanderMale cats roam more, and so do cats with too little to do at home.

What is known

  • Roaming intact cats produce unwanted kittens and spread parasites and disease.
  • Roaming cats are at greater risk of injury.
  • Containment and a richer home life resolve most cases.

What helps

  • Sterilise, enrich the home territory, and secure doors and windows.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 1165 to 1172.

CatsTaking a cat to the vet: travel box and carMost cats travel only to the vet, so the travel box and the car become signals of something bad. Motion sickness, fear and crying are common.

What is known

  • Sudden movements, sharp turns, not being able to see out, and a full stomach make motion sickness worse.
  • A secure travel box keeps both the cat and the driver safe.
  • Scolding a frightened cat in the car makes it worse.

What helps

  • Leave the travel box out at home as a bed, with treats inside, so it means safety.
  • Drive smoothly; practise short trips that end well.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 1189 to 1196.

CatsA cat that cries a lotCats vocalise for pain, illness, territory, attention, anxiety and fights. Some breeds are naturally chatty.

What is known

  • Cats outside the home and many cats in the area can set off crying.
  • Most problems need several weeks of steady work, and the cause has to be found.

What helps

  • A vet check, especially for older cats.
  • Meet daily needs on a predictable schedule; reward quiet, not crying.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 1197 to 1209.

7 topics

Repetitive habits, eating odd things, and old age

Spinning, chasing lights, licking, sucking fabric, eating what is not food, and the changes of the senior years.

DogsSpinning, chasing shadows, snapping at airTail chasing, staring at or chasing shadows and reflections, snapping at imaginary flies and sucking the flank can be compulsive habits, ways of coping, bids for attention, or signs of illness such as partial seizures.

What is known

  • Stress, conflict, frustration, a dull environment and an unpredictable relationship with people all feed these habits; some breeds and family lines are prone.
  • Shouting at the dog can be heard as attention and keep the habit going.
  • Injuries to the tail mean the habit has become self-injurious and needs a vet.
  • These habits are rarely cured but can be controlled for long periods; improvement takes weeks, and the longer the habit has run, the harder it is.

What helps

  • A vet should check first: some of these are seizures or illness.
  • Keep a predictable daily schedule of meals, walks, play and training.
  • Start and end interactions with a clear cue, so the dog knows what to expect.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 731 to 796.

DogsLicking too muchLicking is normal grooming and a friendly or appeasing gesture. Too much licking of itself, of people or of surfaces can come from anxiety, from habit, or from itch, pain or gut trouble.

What is known

  • Anxiety, separation distress, a tense home, and too little exercise, play and company make it more likely.
  • Pushing the dog away or holding its mouth shut can raise its anxiety and the licking with it.
  • Self-licking can wear away fur and damage skin.

What helps

  • A vet check for skin, joint and gut problems.
  • More exercise, play and things to do; a predictable routine.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 751 to 760.

Dogs and catsEating things that are not foodPica is swallowing things that are not food: cloth, plastic, stones. It can follow illness, poor feeding, boredom, a bid for attention, anxiety or compulsion. In cats, sucking and chewing fabric is a close cousin.

What is known

  • Young, curious animals with nothing better to play with, and large dogs that get too little activity and company, are most at risk. Siamese and Burmese cats are over-represented among fabric chewers.
  • Animals that swallow objects risk a blocked gut. Vomiting, constipation or not eating after swallowing something is an emergency.
  • The animal is not being spiteful; punishment can make it worse.
  • If anxiety or compulsion is not behind it, treatment usually works; a liking for certain items may remain.

What helps

  • Keep tempting items out of reach, and supervise.
  • More play, exploration and company; for cats, safe things to chew and a richer room.
  • A vet check for anaemia, gut or liver disease, and the diet.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 761 to 770, 797 to 806 and 826 to 838.

CatsThe cat that licks its fur awaySome cats groom so much that bare patches appear, on the belly, flanks or front legs, or nearly everywhere. It is called overgrooming.

What is known

  • Changes in the cat's surroundings or routine can set it off; it is reported more in indoor cats.
  • Skin disease and other medical causes must be ruled out, and that work-up can take weeks or months.
  • It often comes back if the trigger cannot be removed, and long-term care is usually needed.

What helps

  • Remove stresses: block upsetting views, separate cats in conflict, add food and water bowls, resting places and litter boxes.
  • A regular schedule of meals, play, grooming and time together.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 807 to 815.

DogsOlder dogs: new behaviour often means illnessA change in an old dog's behaviour may be the first sign of a medical problem. Common changes: aggression, distress when alone, night-time waking, and soiling.

What is known

  • In one study, 22.5% of dogs over 9 had a behaviour problem that had begun recently.
  • About half of dogs over 11 may show at least one sign of cognitive decline; one data set found it in around 28% of dogs aged 11 to 12 and 68% of those aged 15 to 16.
  • Cognitive dysfunction is progressive: treatment slows it, but does not reverse it.
  • Old dogs can still learn, more slowly; rewards work as they always did.

What helps

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 839 to 859.

CatsOlder cats: crying at night, missing the boxCats over 10 may cry at night, interact less, become irritable, play less, seem lost, or soil outside the box. These changes often have a medical cause and do not have to be accepted as old age.

What is known

  • Dental pain can stop an old cat eating; arthritis can make the litter box hard to get into.
  • About half of cats over 11 may show at least one sign of cognitive decline, and it rises with age.
  • Treating medical problems improves quality of life; ageing itself is progressive, but can be slowed.

What helps

  • Tell the vet about every change.
  • Make the litter box easy to reach and to climb into.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 871 to 887.

Dogs and catsWhen a companion animal diesMany people worry that a surviving pet is grieving. We cannot know an animal's feelings for certain, but changes after a loss are common, and part of what looks like grief is the loss of a routine.

What is known

  • A close or dependent bond, the family's own grief, a changed routine and existing anxieties make a stronger reaction more likely.
  • Changes can be small, like sleeping somewhere new, or large, like refusing food.
  • Most animals adjust within days to weeks; each reacts differently.

What helps

  • Keep a structured day with company and exercise.
  • Offer gentle activity: food puzzles, short play sessions, grooming, quiet time together.
  • An animal that stops eating needs the vet.

Where to check. Pike and Horwitz (2026), pp. 860 to 870 and 888 to 900.

Sources

Where this comes from.

Every topic is drawn from Amy L. Pike and Debra F. Horwitz (eds), Blackwell’s Five-Minute Veterinary Consult Clinical Companion: Canine and Feline Behavior, third edition (Wiley, 2026; ISBN 9781394204915), written in our own words, with the pages given on each topic. One point on puppies also cites Meghan E. Herron (ed.), Introduction to Animal Behavior and Veterinary Behavioral Medicine (Wiley-Blackwell, 2024).

This page explains; it does not diagnose or treat. Medicines for behaviour are a vet’s decision, so none are named here. For aggression or anything that puts people at risk, see a vet and a qualified, reward-based behaviour professional.

The Academy Find a PFA unit